3D Printer Hardware

Build-Plate / Print Bed
Heating


 * Some print beds are heated, others aren't
 * Heat increases adhesion of the first layer to the build plate
 * Almost always 60 C, if using ABS or exotic material check the data provided by the manufacturer of that filament

Material


 * Always check the manufacturer's information on your filament type, it may specify to use a particular bed material


 * Glass
 * Common and quite effective (especially if heated)
 * If having trouble sticking to glass, try a thin layer of glue (the purple disappearing glue works well) or painters tape
 * Rinse plate with warm water after the print to remove the glue
 * Flexible
 * Mostly used in large print production environments since they can be removed and replaced quickly
 * Does not scratch like glass, heats up faster

Bed Leveling


 * One of the most common failures is because of print leveling
 * Some printers (Ultimaker 3) have automatic leveling but may occasionally require a manual one
 * Must be consistently level everywhere
 * If it is too far from the nozzle, spaghetti like filament will not "smush" onto the plate
 * If it is too close to the nozzle, there will be too much pressure and not enough filament will extrude

Extruder
Direct Drive vs Bowden


 * Direct Drive
 * The hot end (extruder) and the driver wheel that pushes the filament are all contained in one place on the print head (MakerBot Replicator)
 * Does not require a tube (less friction and fewer failures), but the print head has to be larger so the build volume is typically reduced
 * Bowden
 * The driver wheel that pushes filament is separate from the print head and hot end and must be connected with a "Bowden tube" (Ultimaker 2+)
 * The tube may have friction and must be cleaned. The tube must be flush with the end of the hot end

Nozzle


 * The tip that heats up and the plastic actually extrudes from. Must be seated well and occasionally becomes clogged.
 * If using a bowden printer, typically has a TFM coupler directly on top of it that must be replaced periodically when it begins to show signs of burn


 * Diameter: the diameter of the hole at the bottom of the nozzle. Controls the thickness of walls (0.8mm nozzle can't make 0.4mm walls)
 * Material: typically brass. A hardened or ruby tipped nozzle is required for abrasive filaments (wood filled, carbon fiber, etc.)



Components
Limit Switches


 * These are used to tell the printer when it has reached the end of a linear direction so that it can re-updates it's known position
 * The printer should "home" by hitting all three of these switches before starting each print (on most printers)
 * The switches connect to the main printer control board and can usually be replaced if needed

Lead Screw


 * A special threaded rod that the print bed or build plate typically is attached to in order to control Z-axis movement precisely
 * These require lubrication periodically, consult the manual of the printer you are using to confirm how often

Belts and Steppers


 * Belts and steppers also control the print position. Typically a stepper will control belts that move the print head in the X and Y direction.
 * The belts will occasionally require tightening, consult the manual of the printer you are using to confirm how often

Linear Bearing


 * There are straight rods that the print head slides across to move in the X and Y direction. They keep the print head in place and the print head usually has bearings that go over the rods.
 * These rods and bearings will require lubrication periodically, consult the manual of the printer you are using to confirm how often

Further
For printer specific information, see below:


 * Ultimaker 2+
 * Ultimaker 3
 * MakerBot Replicator