Slicing

Once you have a 3D model file as a .stl or a .obj, it is time to prepare it for the printer. This is done with a slicer. A slicer turns a 3D geometry to a path that the printer follows with specific instructions at each step in a gcode file.

Cura
Cura is one of the most popular slicers. It controls the Ultimaker printers but can be used for several other printers as well. If you would like to print with the Artillery Sidewinder x1, you must first set up a Cura Profile. Follow the steps below for some guidance on how to do this.

Download Cura: Link

Artillery Sidewinder profile download: Link

Artillery Sidewinder profile set up video: Link

Printer
Make sure you have selected the correct printer, there are different settings for UM2+ and UM3, AS x1. Settings > Printer can be used to set up additional printers.

Material
Make sure the material is set to the proper material. The nozzle should always be 0.4mm.

Quality
Layer Height - controls the height of individual layers in z. Lower heights take significantly more time, but produce better quality.

Shell
Wall Thickness - Will affect the number of walls to match the thickness written based on the nozzle diameter. Should typically be 2 times the nozzle diameter.

Wall Count - The number of walls on the outside perimeter of the model. Only change if using a large, non-intricate model that requires extra strength.

Top / Bottom Layers - Walls but on the top and bottom planes of the model.

Horizontal Expansion - Look it up if you ever need to print with Nylon or ABS.

Infill
Density - The amount of the interior that will be filled with filament. 20% is about normal, anything over 50% can be detrimental to the model since the interior will cool at a different rate than the exterior

Pattern - How the infill is arranged. Best one depends on the geometry of your model. Most cases Grid or Triangles will work, if extra strength needed (at cost of more time and material), a 3D mode such as Tetrahedral would be best.

Material
Retraction - Moves filament up the extruder when moving between print surfaces. This prevents “stringing”. Should almost always be on.

Speed
Print Speed - How fast the print head moves. How fast it moves during particular things (between parts, walls, infill) can be controlled individually, but this adjusts all. A faster speed results in faster prints, but typically worse quality. 60mm/s is almost always fine for the Ultimakers. If absolutely must be adjusted, do so in 5mm/s intervals.

Cooling
Enable Cooling - You will always need cooling. (unless using classy poly-carbonate).

Fan Speed - Should almost always be 100%. If the fans are too powerful and are not allowing the nozzle to reach the proper temperature, then the fans can be turned down in 5% intervals.

Minimum Layer Time - Ensures that the print head is overtop a layer for an amount of time before starting the next. This is good only for very small layers, so that they can be cooled fully before the next hot layer is put on top (prevents warping). Unless printing smaller than a quarter, should not need changing.

Support
Generate Supports - Supports are extrusions not originally part of your model that are printed below overhangs in the original geometry. If you are printing a vertical circle for example, the top of the circle will have a high “overhang angle” and needs to be printed onto something. Supports are placed in the model to give the overhang something to print on.

Support Placement - Everywhere: supports can start anywhere and end anywhere to support all detected overhangs. Touching Build plate: supports can only start touching the build plate, and end somewhere on the model requiring the support.

Support Overhang Angle - The minimum angle the slicer will require and generate supports for. Default of 60.

Build Plate Adhesion
The first layer is the hardest to get right. It has to adhere to the build plate, and will sometimes peel up (called “warping”). Build plate adhesion modes help prevent this.

Skirt - Prints two lines around, but not touching the model. Really just makes sure the extruder is primed so that your first layer is good.

Brim - Prints a several line thick brim around the model connecting with it. This results in a one layer thick little brim on the model, that works to prevent the pulling forces of warp from reaching the corners of the actual model. Brim is easy to remove afterwards and is almost never a bad idea.

Raft - This will print several layers in a profile larger than your model, then print the model on top of this raft. This way, if warping occurs, it will ruin the raft, not the model. Uses more material, and is harder to do with tall or large models. Works well on MakerBot Replicator, but for Ultimakers, a Brim is recommended.